Quad to Cues

[Mixerman]

I replaced a light bulb on the Quad to Cues switch. After that the Quad to Cues did not work. Maybe it is the switch that got broken during the replacement...   Someone who have replaced that switch before? Maybe it is an issue with a card in the centre section? It seems like a hazle to replace the switch, so maybe it is an idea to just short the switch on the card? Some one who got some ideas?

Regards

Finstad

[amillar]

That is strange. To give us some clues:

• Is it always in Quad to Cues or is it never in Quad to Cues?
• Does Omni work?

I first thought it might be because you had used an LED bulb, but I have looked at the 31 card circuit and this would not be a problem.

Thanks,

Andy

[Mixerman]

The Omni works! The Quad to Cues stoped working after replacing a light bulb. Not LED bulb. I think the switch is broken, but it is a hazzle to replace it, so maybe I just short it on the card. Is it card nr. 31?

Thanks

Børge

[amillar]

Yes, the switch comes in on pin 24 on the '31 card.

Does the light work (switch on and off)? If it does then the switch is ok.

But otherwise, yes could could short pin 24 to pin 52. Very carefully...

Cheers,

Andy

[Mixerman]

Hello Andy!

I found that the Quad to cue switch is totally broken. Im a little afraid to short on the card, but can I short the thin wires from the switch? There is  two red and two blue wires - twistet together, and on orange one..

[Mixerman]

Bump...

[radardoug2]

Really the best thing would be to replace the switch. You have an expensive console, you need to maintain it.

[Mixerman]

Its very hard to get in there.. Maybe I had to loosen the whole centre section? Is that difficult? A teck took a look on it some days ago, he ment it will be hard to replace that switch without taking the whole section to the repair bench..

[Spanzor]

I'm not sure which switch it is exactly, I think it is the same as the Solo/Cut Switch which is

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EAO/01-281025?qs=2pKMaj72wiGzfkvp5VwXEA%3D%3D

You shouldn't have to pull it away from the console, when you've got the 651 lifted up you should be able to remove the hex screws that keep the faceplate secured, kinda like this guy has done
 
https://reverb.com/item/5826389-ssl-4000-e-g-1986-parts

[jimlfixit]

Hi people

Just seen the post about working on the 651 with some switch problem.

Unscrew the 4 x 4BA x 5/16th black countersunk screws holding the 651 in place. Use your 2BA module pullers (if you have them) to screw into the front panel and pull it up vertically from the frame until it clips into position and doesn't fall down. Place some bubble wrap or cardboard over the channels or other centre section panels on the right hand side (looking from the front) so you can position the 651 on there, on its side.

With the 651 positioned about 8" out of the frame, you will see the two vertical sliders at the top and bottom. By using two people, you will be able to press into part of the sliders in order to lift it completely out of the console with the cables still connected.

Lift it up and position it onto the cardboard or bubblewrap so you can access the inside of it and work on it without undoing all the cables and taking it to another location to work on.

Hope this helps and makes sense. I am suggesting this from memory as it has been quite a few decades since I did this so, bear with me.

I will create a new post for this (651 removal) and repeat this information in case anyone needs to know how to remove the 651.

[Mixerman]

I'm not sure which switch it is exactly, I think it is the same as the Solo/Cut Switch which is

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EAO/01-281025?qs=2pKMaj72wiGzfkvp5VwXEA%3D%3D

You shouldn't have to pull it away from the console, when you've got the 651 lifted up you should be able to remove the hex screws that keep the faceplate secured, kinda like this guy has done
 
https://reverb.com/item/5826389-ssl-4000-e-g-1986-parts

Aha! This will make it all much easier! I will try this on monday!

Thank You!

[jchestek]

Seconded, you can remove the screws along both sides of the 651's front panel and carefully, carefully flip up the left side of the front panel; do it as if there was a hinge along the PC board edge (on the right side).  The wiring harnesses SHOULD be all dressed towards the PC board and should allow the front panel to flip open so you can work on the underside of the panel.

Do this at your own risk, I've only done it once or twice myself; the pucker factor is significant, given the age of the wiring and insulation!

[Mixerman]

So doing this (se picture) is a quite risky operation? I find this pic in this post, its not my SSL... I really should replace the mini LS knob to..
If there is a risk to damage the whole thing by doing this, then I just leve it.

Thanks!

[waltzingbear]

that is the way it was meant to be done.

the only reality is that was when the wiring and insulation was new and supple.

things will have hardened and the risk of breaking a wire is higher. Hence the "proceed with caution" warning.

Be ready to do all replacement work before you begin, make it short and sweet. Figure out a good way to support the switch panel before you begin, minimize the flexing. Use common sense.

Cheers
Alan