Bucket switch ---SOLVED---

[oyanliz]

Hi all,

One of my bucket is dead after switched off. I tried switching on but there is bad contact, it becomes crazy all the VU meters and high noise... so I think I should replace it.

I found this switch:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/0316995/?relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E2828282872737C5253295B205D3F293F285C647B337D5B5C2D5C735D3F5C647B332C347D5B705061415D3F29297C283235285C647B387D7C5C647B317D5C2D5C647B377D2929292426706F3D3126736E3D592673723D2673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3331362D393935267374613D3033313639393526&searchHistory=%7B%22enabled%22%3Atrue%7D

Is the right switch? Should I replace anything else?

Thanks in advance.

Regards

Oihan

[radardoug2]

Presumably the original switch is 3 pole. So that one would be OK if it will fit.

[Philn]

Yes, F4TN0904 is the correct part (the original is 4 pole).
You should check the current trips though as either could be the problem.
Good luck, this is not an easy job.

[oyanliz]

Thank you so much!!

Regards.

Oihan

[jimlfixit]

I looked up my references for switches and circuit breakers from about 1996 when I was involved in some SSL console extensions (consoles are mostly being reduced these days!) and here are some references for you.

1   4 pole switch from Farnell (Newark in the USA?) which is cheaper. SSL used the C&K version I think.
https://uk.farnell.com/c-k-components/7401syzqe/switch-4pdt/dp/9574905?rpsku=rel3%3A151173&st=151173

2   Circuit breaker (normally 4amp but you may need 6 Amp versions!).
https://uk.farnell.com/eta/106-p30-4a/circuit-breaker-4a/dp/143572?ost=143572&ddkey=https%3Aen-GB%2FElement14_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch

The SSL switch versions were the black RS (C&K) type though. I reckon it may be the circuit breaker, rather than the switch. SSL used rubber sleeving for all of these so, apply some sleeve lubricant or maybe a bit of washing up liquid to loosen the sleeve before you remove it, otherwise you will have to try to remove it with pliers or even cut it off as your console could be quite old.

Maybe swop the B3 6 way Bicc power connector over from an 8 bucket section next to the affected 8 channel section to see if that works.

If you have to redo either the circuit breaker or the toggle switch, all the patchbays are in the way, especially near the back of the console so, perhaps it is a good time to take them all out (but still connected to the console and DL's of course), rest them on bubblewrap or cardboard and vacuum out the area and check on the patchbays and DL wiring at the same time (take loads of pictures for future reference as well).

This would be easy for me, as I am used to this, but I am not at your studio so, take some time to look at all the wiring within the patchbay section at the same time as fixing your power issue.

Hope this helps and regards from Jim Lassen, Marlow, Bucks, UK.

Check out my wiring Facebook page as well for some examples of my wiring.

[oyanliz]

Thank you Jim!

Your comments will help me while thinking how to replace the switch, thank you so much.

I will Write back soon.

Regards.

Oihan

[oyanliz]

Finally I bought the switch from RS-online:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/0316995/?relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E2828282872737C5253295B205D3F293F285C647B337D5B5C2D5C735D3F5C647B332C347D5B705061415D3F29297C283235285C647B387D7C5C647B317D5C2D5C647B377D2929292426706F3D3126736E3D592673723D2673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3331362D393935267374613D3033313639393526&searchHistory=%7B%22enabled%22%3Atrue%7D

I decided to replace it without removing the patchbays... It have been a very difficult job (for me at least), no access, no space between switch pins for soldering... Maybe it would be easyer to do the job between 2 people. Anyway, the switch is already replaced and seems the same as the original. Everything is working fine now.

Thanks to all for guideing me!!

Best regards!!

Oihan

[jimlfixit]

Yes, the RS switch by ALCO was the same one used by SSL and was a C&K version then I think. The red Farnell type I mentioned is also an alternative and a bit cheaper.
Not quite sure how you managed to change it without removing any patchbays as the power section is near the back of the console but, well done and I guess you did it under the connector panel.
I am glad you fixed the problem and I thought it may have been the circuit breaker instead.
Removing the patchbays is not difficult but have plenty of bubblewarp or cardboard handy to put the patchbays on, rather than scratching the console surfaces, pots, switches etc.
If you do that, it is also a good time to investigate the patchbay area, clean it out a bit and tend to any loose wires there on the patchbay which may have snapped off over time (take some pictures as well for future reference).
Also, if you have time, unscrew the 96 way DL's, check for pins pushed back into either the cable plug or console socket and unscrew the DL socket M3 screws and put them back (not as tight) as they are metal going into a aluminum panel (like the patchbays).
The reason for this is because, over time, there is a chemical reaction between the steel screw and the aluminium panel and you MAY find it harder to unscrew them later when you MAY have a real problem to fix in a few minutes.

[oyanliz]

Hi Jim!!

Thanks for your comments. When you refer to DL socket... Are you talking about the DL connectors below the patchbays?

I have some bantam connectors unscrewed in the patchbay panels... so... I will try removing and cleaning the patchbay area and screwing the missing screws. It is a little bit scary... I am not sure if I would be able to put all the cables back in their place... too many cables in a reduced space... but I will try.

Thanks once more for your comments.

Regards.

Oihan

[jimlfixit]

Hi Jim!!

Thanks for your comments. When you refer to DL socket... Are you talking about the DL connectors below the patchbays?
Yes

I have some bantam connectors unscrewed in the patchbay panels... so... I will try removing and cleaning the patchbay area and screwing the missing screws.
It is a good time to do this if there is any downtime. Better than when a session is happening and you have no time and in a hurry. Sometimes the patchbay screws come loose and need to be rescrewed back into place. Good that you spotted them now rather than later. It's best to do all this when you have a day or so to inspect the area when no clients are in the studio and repair any faults.

It is a little bit scary... I am not sure if I would be able to put all the cables back in their place... too many cables in a reduced space... but I will try.
Do not be bothered by this. Yes, lots of looms to patchbays at the back above the power supply stuff. Your console may be quite old (1980's) in which case some of the cables would be quite big and brittle over time and there are a lot of them in that area to contend with.

Handle them with care and take out some of the 96 way DL sockets, notice their labels, inspect them, take pictures and put them back.


Thanks once more for your comments.

Regards.

Oihan
[/quote]