Hi all (
updated 21:48 26th Sept 13)
The black handled ITT tool Paavo showed on the advert link is almost the same one that I use and I have done 100's of DL's over the last 25 years or so with hardly tooling problems. I would suggest buying it or even both as the price is very good. I personally prefer it to the other orange or blue handled versions as it is easier to see the back of the wire and crimp in the tool before you actually crimp.
I can't see from the picture if it has a plastic (actually nylon I think) or metal crimp grip but certainly the metal versions are much better and last longer. After a while, the plastic grip wears out a bit and the pin could end up twisted and crimped at an angle. My one has 24-26 and 20-22 crimp positions whereas the one in the advert has 24-30 and another one. 24-30 awg covers a big range of wires but I think it should be okay as most wires are 24 (most commonly used) to 26 (small like Mogami) these days.
I attach a picture of my one and you can spot the aluminium crimp grip inside. Also, notice the black round adjustment screw on the lower handle. If the tool starts to become a bit loose, you can adjust this a bit to tighten it up as it is a cam screw which adjusts the initial opening for the crimpers. Use pliers with a pointy end to unscrew this
and the back nut, which has the cam on and becomes loose as well. You can then reposition the back cam nut in a slightly different position and connect the two together again. I've just taken some pictures of all this but haven't got time to put them on Photobucket now and link to this post so will so within the next day or so.Important: keep the tool oiled and open when not in use to avoid keeping the spring under tension (this applies to all crimp tools). My version lost its spring years ago but I actually prefer that as I use my fingers between the handles to manually open it after crimping. That way, I just open it enough to get my hand round the handles for the next crimp otherwise, they open too far!
When crimping, twist the wire first which makes it stiffer and less likely to be pushed into the crimp too far. When you are happy with its position, crimp it. After you have done all the crimps for a loom make sure you inspect them all and give each completed crimp a big tug test. This only takes a few minutes but will save you much more time later if something doesn't work.
How about this situation: You finish the DL, put the backshell on and plug it into the console. Later on you test all the gear only to find that the cold wire on circuit 19 is not connected properly. I mentioned cct 19 as this is one of the ones in the middle of the DL near the centre spindle which is harder to get access to.
You then ask yourself, is this the equipment, SSL channel/651, patch or the DL? If it is the DL wiring, it will take you far longer to sort out later so, a few minutes inspection and tugging the wires is well worth it as you will know in advance that it is not a bad crimp and you can look at other places to find the problem instead.
Also, make sure you insert the crimp fully into the DL (you should hear a click sound). You may find later that a pin has not been inserted fully and it is only when you connect a plug to a socket that the pin moves back into the connector creating an open circuit.
If you need any DL Plugs, sockets, crimps, handles or metal backshells, I have a advert in the sell/buy menu with up to date prices and availability for these (http://forum.sslmixed.com/index.php?topic=200.0).Hope this helps from Jim Lassen
Now, how about some more positive karma votes as Sintech was on 5 and me on 14 but he has greatly overtaken me now and I'm having a sulk! (only kidding!).
