Tech discussion > 9000 J & K series

Racking 9000 series input modules

(1/2) > >>

Racking a few 9000 modules, so I thought I'd take some pictures as I went, and assemble them into a sort of a "How-To" for anyone else who wants to know how to do it.

To make things nice, the module is largely self-contained, and the inputs and outputs are already balanced. We'll be using Mic input and Line input, and taking the signal from the module's old Insert Send. This should still allow the dynamics to be switched pre or post EQ, as well as the dynamics sidechain switching, and if you want to wire the insert return up as a key input, you can even externally key the gate or duck the compressor.

Here's how to start:

You'll see the module is in two large circuit boards: the (smaller) lower PCB has lots of stuff we'll be discarding (like multiplexing, etc) while all the analog audio stuff we're interested in is on the (larger) upper PCB.

Start by locating the edge connector guide like the one shown in this picture:

001 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Specifically the one which has one screw hole in the upper board and the other screw hole in the lower board. You'll need to remove it in order to allow the two boards to separate.

Next, unplug all the ribbons which link the upper and lower boards. On most modules there will be three ribbons (two are shown in this picture).

002 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

On modules which have the optional Left-Center-Right pan option fitted, there'll be a couple more ribbons, going to a square circuit board mounted by the routing matrix... just unplug those too, and remove the circuit board too. (I'll dig up some photos of this board later, but it's easy-peasy. 4 screws is all.)

Next, remove the knob caps and knobs from the aux sends and pan pots. Basically all the knobs below the 'overload' LED.

003 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Next undo the pot nuts for the four pots which are mounted to the daughter board shown here. Then remove the board and lift it upward to reveal the LED wires attached to the same board.

004 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

The LEDs are glued in... you can use needle nose pliers to remove them if you want, but you may just want to cut the wires, since we're discarding this whole thing...

005 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

This is what the LEDs look like if you break them free from the panel...

006 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

...but you may want to just cut the LEDs, since there's a lot of them, and they're hardwired... Here's me cutting some other LEDs further down the board...

007 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

You'll want to remove the fader next... then the pot nuts.

008 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Then desolder the switch wiring... or if you don't care, just cut those wires too!

009 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Then flip the whole thing over and remove the three small countersunk pozidriv screws which hold the lower PCB to the front panel:

010 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Then remove the lower circuit board assembly... like this:

011 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Next, remove the screw attaching the end-block to the module's lower edge...

012 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

...move the endblock up to the uppermost liberated pcb mounting hole...

013 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

...and re-attach.

014 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

This makes a nice strong mounting point so you can 'chop' the unused part of the front panel.

Oh, while I remember, this is the L-C-R pan option card... you should be able to see that is is mounted with 4 screws... just remove them and the standoffs.

021 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Anyhow... is is what you should be left with:

020 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

You can just power this bit up as-is and run signal though it if you want... It's self contained. Mic and Line input, as well as the output (the old Insert Send) are all balanced.

The signal connections are easy-peasy:

Mic input pins:

017 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Insert Send (our output) pins are visible here:

016 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Line input is visible here:

015 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

I'll make a more complete table of the power and signal pins a little later on... getting late here and there's a tropical storm passing through, so I should probably log off for a bit!


119 - Mic in +
120 - Mic in -
121 - Mic in Gnd.

126 - Line in +
127 - Line in -
128 - Line in Gnd.

157 - Insert Send +
158 - Insert Send -
159 - Insert Send Gnd


139 NEG. 25VDC
140 NEG. 25VDC

142 +48V DC Phantom

147 NEG. 20VDC
148 NEG. 20VDC

149 POS. 20VDC
150 POS. 20VDC

151 +8V Logic
152 +8V Logic

Notes on power connections:

Regulation on the 20VDC is not critical. Remember, this is fed into the onboard regulators in each module, so there's some tolerance. Give it some nicely smoothed DC and it'll be fine, but don't sweat the precise voltage..

Likewise the +8VDC feeds into the 5V regulator. Don't worry about the precise voltage, just give it some usable smooth DC and it'll do the rest.

The -25V is used for signal switching. There's no ludicrous current demand.

If you're not using phantom, there's no need for 48VDC. If you're using phantom, just give it some nice 48vDC and you're all set.

Rob over at Proharmonic has racked some of these up... here's a picture of his:

018 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

Inside, you can see that he's done the same thing, and used the upper board after discarding the lower PCB.

019 by Keith Andrews, on Flickr

If you look closely, you can see that he's just soldered to the gold edge connector pins, and this is probably the easiest solution. For power, you can probably just solder onto the pico fuses (some older modules had glass fuse holders, you can solder to those instead if you want!)

Anyhow, just shed down the module as described in the first post, connect power, connect signal, and you're good to go. Put that in a box and it's golden.

Keith... simply stunning!!!!  8)


[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version